![]() |
|
|
|
Obviously, with so many parts on the market, it's difficult to decide which is best, and taking the word of someone you don't really know can be risky. My recommendations are also provided to you with the understanding that there may be equipment out there that better meets your needs/wants. These recommendations and links will give you a rough idea of what's out there. They also assume that you are trying not to spend the highest amount of money, but get good equipment (value). Use this guide as a generic reference to what's out there and what to upgrade on your E-Maxx. Note: the links are there for a reference only, and the equipment may be available for a lower cost, faster shipping, or with better customer service elsewhere. (in no particular order):
Steering servo:
Steering servo
saver:
Motors:
Magnetic Mayhem (2 of these) (don't run these with more than 12 cells, or
taller gearing, or heavier tires)
Skid Plates:
Great Assembly 2 and 3mm titanium (3mm is very heavy, but virtually indestructible)
Hardcore rear all also
available in blue green and purple titanium
Rockhoundz
titanium
Suspension:
RPM (only includes A-Arms) available in purple, white dye-able, and black
Bulkheads:
Hardcore Racing (strong and light)
Wheel drive shafts:
MIP "Wide" need
2 pair
SuperMaxx (best) (also for wide suspension)
MIP
"non-wide" (for suspensions without the new "wide" standard)
Center drive shafts:
MIP (extremely good) (this link is for E-Maxx ONLY)
Transmission idler
gears:
Diff beef-up:
Wheels:
Too many to list, but I like the Maximizer beadlocks because no glue note: the plastic beadlocks are pretty heavy for wheels.
Shock springs:
Shock towers (if you
don't go with a suspension kit that includes 'em)
Batteries (one of
the most important things to spend extra for quality)
Charger:
Integy Indi 16x4-Pro (I have 2 of these I like them so much. You can even
bridge packs in series to charge 2 packs at a time). I favor the 16x4
Pro because it is a feature-rich cycling charger that is AC/DC, meaning you
don't have to buy a separate AC-DC power converter to use it with a wall
outlet.
Alloy hex screw kit:
Great Assembly (sounds expensive, but this is the best you can get, and when you start
breaking and stripping screws, you'll know why it's worth it.)
Tires:
your choice.
Pro-Line, TRC, Imex, and many other companies make a lot of good tires for all
sorts of terrain. Check out Traxxas' new SportTraxx tire.
Shocks:
Traxxas aluminum big bore, Very good (parts
everywhere, good price)
Progressive piggy-backs (arguably the best
you can buy. available in different colors)
Ofna buggy shocks from SuperMaxx
(arguably
the best you can buy, work great even with just 1 on each corner to save
weight and maintenance time)
Steering servo skid plate:
Any (rcRaven,
Dynamite,
Rockhoundz etc.)
Chassis: (optional) Again, there are so many, you should decide your need to settle on a chassis. The stock tub works fine for most intents and purposes. Then there is the new kit from Bomb-Proof Products called the Torpedo and Race Bomb lexan chassis, a nice one from GorillaMaxx, the inexpensive aluminum plate from New Era Models, the quad (battery packs) from Dynamite, and the very fancy polished aluminum chassis from Unlimited Engineering, along with many others.
Chassis braces (if
you don't go with a kit that includes them like the BPP Torpedo):
many others...
Bulkhead braces
(Great Assembly and
Dace Mfg. include braces with their bulkheads, so this
is for bulkhead kits that don't):
Any decent
looking aluminum ones or RPM nylon
Battery
hold-downs:
Parma carbon fiber (thin, light and sweet
looking)
GorillaMaxx Velcro straps (very light and
inexpensive, colors)
Turnbuckles/Tie-Rods (if you don't go with a kit that includes them, like
SuperMaxx):
SuperMaxx
Titanium (best)
Suspension
hinge-pins (if you don't go with a kit that includes them, like SuperMaxx):
Traxxas Titanium (made by Lunsford)
Motor heat sinks
(a must with "hot" motors):
Traxxas (one for each)
Associated (one set of these - 2 sinks per
motor)
Body (optional):
Any (Parma, Pro-Line,
Bolink, etc...)
FM radio system
(optional):
Any (Airtronics,
JR, HiTec, Futaba, etc...)
Aluminum wheel hex
hubs (no longer "optional" - these are also made by other companies, so
shop around):
CA glue for tires
Bearing and
bushing oil
40-80wt shock oil (depending on your preference and weight of truck and hardness of shock spring)
Hex driver tools
if you go with a hex screw kit (highly recommended):
WiHa (metric and standard a plus) or my personal favorite so far:
Integy 6-piece set
Battery over-heat
alarm (preserve those expensive NiMH batts by not letting 'em get over 120*
F):
ProMatch
temp alarm
Wire (optional): The best I have found is the Deans "Wet Noodle" Connectors (optional): Custom and special stuff (optional): www.rcalloys.com has provided us with the strongest and best looking drive shafts known to man, and took the time and effort to fabricate, from scratch, a very strong and rare spur gear for my dual brushless E-Maxx. Consider contacting them to see if possibilities for your "special" ideas exist for fruition. Their standard products are absolutely of the finest possible quality. If you're in the market for strong and gorgeous wheels, skids, and anything else you see there, check out their site for those options.
a good place to
look for SuperMaxx, Hardcore Racing, and other parts at the best prices I
could find:
www.hobbyshopnj.com
for a great full kit that includes many of the recommended parts, check out Great Assembly's SM/GA kit including RockHoundz or GA titanium skid plates!
|